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An Everest expedition requires
many months of planning and preparation. When you consider the experience
required it takes years to be prepared. Below provides a summarized outline
of what gear, skills, physical, medical and mental preparation is involved
in getting ready for an Everest expedition.
Skills
Mountaineering skills required to climb Everest include: climbing on fixed
rope, self ice-axe arrest, cramponing, belaying, rappelling, roped glacier
travel, route finding, anchors, crevasse rescue and technical ice climbing.
Physical Training
I train all year around and generally stay in very good physical condition.
However, before a big climb I always step my training up a few notches.
I have a saying; you can either pay now or pay later. I prefer to “pay
now” in order to enjoy the climb, improve my safety margin and probability
of success. I cross train a minimum of 1-2 hours of cardiovascular training
(running , biking or stairs with a heavy pack) a day with an additional
hour of weight training. I rest one day per week. On weekends I look for
opportunities to train (skiing, biking, mountaineering, etc.) for a few
hours. Excellent physical condition won't fend off altitude sickness;
however, it will enable more oxygen to reach the body. My stepped up training
program starts 6-month before a big climb.
Chiropractor: Often during intense training, "old"
and new injuries become a painful reality. I have found chiropractic treatment
to be extremely effective in maintaining a strong physical structure able
to generate high performance. I have been very fortunate to having found
some of the best Chiropractor's in the country: Dr. Scott Rubin in St.
Petersburg, Florida and Dr. Christine Phillips in Park City, Utah. I thank
both of them for their care and expertise.
Mental Preparation
Mental Toughness: Climbing big mountains requires a significant
amount of mental toughness to embrace conditions such as: extreme discomfort
from cold, fatigue and altitude (head aches, nausea, sleep apnea), fear,
etc.
Patience: Mountaineering requires a lot of 'down time'.
Down time can consist of acclimatization, rest and weather days. Out of
the roughly eight weeks I will spend on the mountain, I will only be climbing
about 20 or more days.
Visualization: I picture myself on the mountain, succeeding
and enjoying the moment.
Individual Gear
Equipment: 5,000+ cubic inches backpack, back pack cover
for rain, large plastic compacter garbage bags, ice axe, 12-point crampons,
ski poles, mechanical ascenders, spare parts, climbing harness, climbing
helmet, carabineers, sleeping bag, oxygen canisters, sleeping bag (rated:
-35 degrees Fahrenheit), sleeping pads, headlamp, water bottles with insulated
water bottle cover, sunscreen, lip protection, eating utensils (bowl &
spoon), first aid kit and prussic cord.
Clothing-Upper Body: Long sleeve underwear top, lightweight
fleece shirt, heavyweight fleece shirt, fleece jacket, Gore-Tex shell
jacket, insulating down-filled outer layer parka, insulated down-filled
suit.
Clothing-Lower Body: Long underwear bottoms, fleece pants,
Gore-Tex pants, trekking pants, underwear
Clothing-Head: Synthetic or wool hat, sun hat, balaclava,
sunglasses w/side shields and full UV and IR protection, goggles w/dark
lens and full UV and IR protection
Clothing-Feet: Wool/Synthetic Socks, crampon compatible
plastic moutaineering boots, hiking boots, gaiters, lightweight shoes,
camp booties
Clothing-Hands: Heavy shelled mitts, heavy shelled gloves,
and fleece gloves
Group Gear & Logistics
Climbing permit, Sherpa's, Hotel, Transportation, Food, Stoves, Spare
Parts, Fuel, Pots & Cooking Utensils, Basecamp Tent, Tents, Ropes,
Satellite Phone, Radios, etc.
Medical
Medical Kit: Antibiotic for upper respiratory problems,
Antibiotic for GI problems, Diamox for acclimazation, Nifedipine (for
pulmonary edema) and Dexamethasome (for cerebral edema), Tylenol 3 for
pain and first aid kit.
Immunizations: Tetanus-Diphtheria, Polio, MMR, Meningitis,
Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Cholera, Rabies, Typhoid, and Malaria
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